A Hidden Treasure Beneath Petals

Delicate yet resilient, the iris flower has captivated civilizations for centuries. More than just a bloom of striking beauty, the iris has woven itself into mythology, medicine, art, and the refined world of perfumery. Beneath its soft, velvety petals lies its true treasure—the rhizome, known as orris, which, after years of patient transformation, yields one of the most exquisite and expensive materials in a perfumer’s palette. Exploring the iris in all its facets, from its role in antiquity to its presence in the works of great artists, its botanical significance, and its irreplaceable contribution to fine fragrance.

Figure 1. From Iris Fields, by Outofmyshed .(2011). https://outofmyshed.co.uk/2011/05/31/iris-fields/

While many flowers owe their fragrant appeal to their petals, the iris is unique. Perfumers seek not the bloom itself but its underground rhizome, a thick, fleshy structure that must undergo years of aging before it reveals its scent. Freshly harvested, orris smells unremarkably like potatoes. However, after at least three years of meticulous drying and maturation, it unveils a powdery, woody, and violet-like fragrance—one of the most sophisticated and enduring notes in perfumery. Orris extraction is a laborious and expensive process. The oil yield from the rhizomes is low, making it one of the most precious materials in the industry. 

Historically, Florence, Italy, was the hub of orris production, with its famed Orris Pallida fields near Greve and Chianti. Today, orris is cultivated in France, Morocco, China, and parts of Eastern Europe. Despite modern production techniques, traditional Florentine white orris remains the gold standard, though its availability has declined significantly.

”Iris is a root that requires neither dressing nor other material, as it smells naturally of Violet, one need merely select the whitest and least-spotted roots; those of Florence are best.” 

Simone Barbe, Le Perfumeur Royal (1699)

The iris takes its name from the Greek word iris, meaning “rainbow.” In mythology, Iris was the winged goddess of the rainbow and messenger of the gods, a counterpart to Hermes. 

Figure 2. William S. Kimball & Company. Iris, Goddess of the Rainbow. The Goddesses of the Greeks and Romans. (1889). Pennsylvania

She was often depicted in classical art holding a caduceus in one hand and Hera’s perfume cist—a small, ornate box used for sacred offerings—in the other. This connection to divine communication and fragrance likely contributed to the flower’s symbolic association with perfume, carrying prayers and messages to the heavens through scented smoke.

”Iris, daughter of Thaumas and Electra, lover of Zeus and mother of Eros, drew Hera’s baths and prepared her toilette. She was the goddess of perfume”

In China, the iris is known as the “dancing spirit of early summer,” symbolizing rebirth and the changing of seasons. Bouquets of irises are traditionally gifted in spring as a sign of renewal.

In Japan, irises carry a more complex symbolism. Known as shōbu, they represent courage, nobility, and the samurai spirit. The shape of their leaves, resembling the blade of a katana, made them a symbol of warriors and masculinity. They are also linked to purification rituals, particularly during the Boy’s Festival (Tango no Sekku), when iris leaves are placed in baths to ward off evil.

The use of orris in perfumery dates back to ancient Egypt, where it was prized for its medicinal properties. By medieval times, orris was a staple in perfumed gloves, cassolettes, and scented powders. In 18th-century France, it was a key ingredient in early eaux de toilette and later found its way into Victorian-era cosmetics, including tooth powders and hair pomades.

Figure 3. Droit, Jean. La Provence. Les Vieilles Provinces de France.

Perfumers value orris for its fixative properties—it not only provides a sophisticated floral-woody scent but also enhances the longevity of other fragrance notes. The key compound responsible for its signature aroma is irone, a molecule that lends orris its powdery, violet-like character. 

The iris has long been a symbol of purity and divine femininity in Western art. It frequently appears in religious paintings, particularly in depictions of the Virgin Mary and Christ Child.

Figure 4. Dürer, Albrech. The Virgin and the Child with Irises. (1500-1510).

• Albrecht Dürer (1471–1528) painted Madonna with the Iris (circa 1500–1510), where a blue iris symbolizes the Virgin’s sorrow and purity.

• Leonardo da Vinci included irises in Virgin of the Rocks (1483–1486), their elegant forms adding depth to the mystical landscape.

• Hugo van der Goes placed irises among lilies in The Portinari Altarpiece (1475–1477), reinforcing their association with the Virgin’s purity.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, orris powder was a common household fragrance, used in sachets to perfume wardrobes. This domestic familiarity with its scent likely contributed to its frequent depiction in still-life paintings of the period.

Irises have been a central motif in Japanese art for centuries, celebrated in poetry, painting, and woodblock prints.

Figure 5. Korin, Ogata. Irises at Yatsuhashi. (After 1709), Japan.

• Ogata Kōrin (1658–1716) created the iconic Irises screen panels (circa 1701–1702), inspired by The Tales of Ise, in which a poet composes verses upon seeing irises growing by a river. His second masterpiece, Irises at Yatsuhashi (Eight Bridges), now housed at the Metropolitan Museum, remains a testament to the flower’s cultural significance.

Figure 6. Hokusai, Katsushika. Grasshopper and Iris (late 1920’s), Japan

• Katsushika Hokusai (1760–1849), the famed ukiyo-e artist, captured the essence of irises in Grasshopper and Iris (1830–1834).

• Utagawa Hiroshige (1797–1858) depicted irises in seasonal landscapes, most notably in Horikiri Iris Garden (1875), showcasing their beauty in serene natural settings.

When Japanese art entered the European market in the late 19th century, Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painters embraced irises as a subject of artistic exploration.

• Vincent van Gogh was particularly enamored with irises, producing some of his most celebrated works featuring the flower, including Irises (1889), Wheat Field with Irises (1888), and Vase with Irises Against a Yellow Background (1890).

Figure 7. Van Gogh, Vincent. Irises (1890), Saint-Remy-de-Provence.

• Claude Monet painted irises repeatedly in his famous gardens at Giverny, with works such as Fields of Yellow Irises at Giverny (1887) and The Artist’s Garden at Giverny (1900).

Figure 8. Monet, Claude. The Path Through Irises (1914-17). Giverny

• Gustave Caillebotte, known for his meticulous attention to floral details, painted Blue Irises, Garden in Petit Gennevilliers (1892).

• Édouard Vuillard captured the soft, dreamy qualities of irises in Iris and Pansies (1901).

“ Where the setting sun

Kisses the sky

An iris blooms

In white splendor.

In the distance, a sailboat”

Tekkan Yosano, 20th Century

Beyond its storied past, the iris is a botanical marvel in its own right. Belonging to the Iridaceae family, this resilient flower thrives in a variety of environments, from sun-drenched meadows to wetlands, with some species even adapting to arid, rocky landscapes. With over 300 known varieties, irises range in color from the deepest violets and royal blues to delicate creams, pinks, and even near-black hues. Their unique structure, often resembling an elaborate crest, consists of three upright petals known as “standards” and three downward-facing petals called “falls,” which sometimes feature intricate veining and a fuzzy, pollen-rich “beard.” This architectural elegance has made the iris a favorite not only in gardens but also in botanical art and floral design, where its striking silhouette and vibrant colors evoke a sense of regality and refinement.

Yet, the iris is not merely a feast for the eyes—it is also one of the most valuable raw materials in perfumery. Unlike most floral extracts, which are derived from petals, the prized scent of iris comes from its underground rhizomes, which undergo an extensive transformation before revealing their full aromatic potential. Once harvested, the rhizomes, known as orris roots, must be carefully dried and aged for three to five years, during which time they develop a rich, powdery fragrance reminiscent of violets, warm woods, and soft suede. The resulting orris butter or orris absolute is one of the most expensive ingredients in the fragrance world, lending depth, elegance, and a refined, velvety quality to perfumes. This slow, meticulous process mirrors the nature of iris itself—an ephemeral bloom that, with time and patience, yields an essence of quiet, lasting beauty.

From its divine symbolism in Greek mythology to its regal status in medieval Europe, its storied history in perfumery, and its deep-rooted presence in the art world, the iris has remained a timeless symbol of elegance, transformation, and beauty. Its delicate petals may wither, but its true essence—locked within its rhizome—endures, much like the lasting influence of the flower on human culture. Whether admired in an ancient painting, worn as a fragrance, or cultivated in a sun-drenched garden, the iris continues to captivate, a testament to nature’s artistry and the patience required to uncover true beauty.