Perfumeries Créme de la Créme

Few scents in the world of perfumery carry the same depth, warmth, and nostalgia as vanilla. From its roots in ancient Mesoamerican civilizations to its dominance in modern fine fragrance, vanilla has transcended its role as a simple spice to become a symbol of indulgence, sensuality, and comfort. Native to Mexico yet now most commonly associated with Madagascar, vanilla’s journey across centuries and continents is one of botanical mystery, human ingenuity, and artistic evolution. More than just a sweet gourmand note, vanilla has a complexity that shifts depending on its origin, extraction method, and the hand that crafts it into a fragrance. Explore vanilla’s fascinating history, its diverse olfactory profiles, and its profound influence on both perfumery and human well-being.

Figure 1. Vanilla Anatomy

Vanilla is a member of the orchid family, a botanical lineage known for its exotic and delicate beauty. Of the hundred known species of vanilla, only three—Vanilla Tahitensis, Vanilla Pompona, and Vanilla Planifolia—carry the rich fragrance that makes the ingredient so coveted. However, Vanilla Planifolia, also known as Bourbon vanilla, dominates global production, accounting for 90% of all vanilla used in perfumery and gastronomy.

The history of vanilla begins with the Totonacs, an indigenous people of what is now modern-day Mexico, who were the first to cultivate and use vanilla. According to legend, the flower was once a princess who, forbidden from marrying her lover, was transformed into the vine that bears the precious vanilla pods—a poetic origin for an ingredient so deeply tied to romance and desire. The Totonacs guarded the secret of vanilla cultivation for centuries, using the pods in sacred rituals, medicine, and as an offering to their gods.

Figure 2. Rivera, Diego. Civilización Totonoca. (2009)

In 1520, Spanish explorer Bernal Díaz del Castillo, traveling with Hernán Cortés, recorded the first European encounter with vanilla. The Aztec emperor Moctezuma was said to flavor his royal cocoa beverage, xocoatl, with ground vanilla pods, creating a luxurious elixir that soon captivated the Spanish conquerors. Recognizing its value, the Spanish introduced vanilla to Europe, where it quickly gained favor among the elite. However, despite its popularity, successful cultivation outside Mexico proved nearly impossible for one crucial reason: the plant’s unique pollination process.

In its native environment, vanilla is pollinated by a highly specialized group of insects, including euglossine bees and certain hummingbird species. These pollinators have a symbiotic relationship with the vanilla flower, allowing for natural fertilization. However, when European botanists attempted to cultivate vanilla outside of Central America, they found that these natural pollinators were absent, resulting in little to no vanilla production.

Figure 3. Vanilla Highlights

The breakthrough came in the 19th century with the work of multiple botanists and horticulturists. In 1836, Belgian botanist Charles Morren first attempted manual pollination at the Liège Botanical Garden, followed by French horticulturist Joseph Neumann in 1837. However, it was in 1841 that a revolutionary discovery was made.

Interesting fact: Edmund Albius, born as an enslaved person in 1829, deceased as a free man in 1880. He was a horticulturist, and made history at the age of 12 when he discovered an artificial pollination technique for vanilla flowers with a thorn plucked from a wild lemon tree. He acquired his botanical knowledge from his (then) owner, Ferréol Bellier Beaumont. His discovery is still used today for the commercial production of vanilla, The technique has revolutionised the production of vanilla by making its lucrative cultivation possible beyond its native environment, allowing it to spread throughout the world, particularly in Madagascar. 

Figure 4. Roussin, Antoine. Album de l’île de la Réunion. Portrait of Edmond Albius. (1863)

Once artificial pollination was mastered, vanilla’s production flourished. In 1848, vanilla cultivation reached Tahiti, where it adapted to the local climate and developed a distinct aromatic profile. By 1880, commercial production had taken off, making vanilla the colony’s second-largest export. In 1933, botanists identified Tahitian vanilla (Vanilla Tahitensis) as a unique species, likely a hybrid of Vanilla Planifolia and Vanilla Odorata or Vanilla Pompona. Unlike Bourbon vanilla, Tahitian vanilla pods do not split open naturally upon maturation, resulting in a smoother, fruitier, and more rounded aroma with caramel and anise facets.

Meanwhile, in Madagascar—the world’s current leading producer—vanilla cultivation was introduced in the late 19th century. Today, over 80,000 hectares along Madagascar’s east coast are dedicated to vanilla farming, with regions such as Diana, Sava, and Analanjirofo supplying 90% of the world’s vanilla. The tropical climate, rich volcanic soil, and semi-intensive agroforestry systems, where vanilla vines grow alongside mango, litchi, and jackfruit trees, create ideal conditions for high-quality pod production.

Although vanilla was first valued for its culinary applications, it has a long history in fragrance as well. The soft, creamy, spicy, and subtly smoky aroma of vanilla seduced Europeans as soon as they discovered the pod. By the late 17th century, vanilla was used to scent tobacco in France, prized for its ability to enhance both taste and aroma. Early tinctures were crafted using grape spirits, and by the 19th century, synthetic vanillin—a lab-created version of vanilla’s key aromatic compound—made the ingredient more accessible.

Figure 5. Praise of the noble/Highly renowned herb Petum or Tobacco. (1658)

Figure 6. Watkins Vanilla Print Ad Page (1963)

Yet, it was in 1925 that vanilla cemented its place in modern perfumery. Jacques Guerlain’s Shalimar, inspired by the romance of Emperor Shah Jahan and his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, used vanilla in a way never seen before: as a warm, sensual base that softened the sharpness of citrus and the opulence of florals. This innovation marked the beginning of vanilla’s ascent in fine fragrance.

Figure 7. Perfumes, Shalimar Ad (1937)

For much of the 20th century, vanilla remained an understated background note, often used in oriental compositions. However, by the late 1990s and early 2000s, it had become a focal point. Tocade (1994) by Rochas, Allure (1996) by Chanel, and Dior Addict (2002) showcased vanilla’s addictive, enveloping qualities, redefining it as a signature note in feminine perfumery. Today, vanilla is a staple in niche and luxury fragrances, from the boozy depth of Spiritueuse Double Vanille (2007) to the powdery elegance of Bois Dormant (2022).

While Madagascar Bourbon vanilla remains the gold standard, regional variations offer a wide spectrum of olfactory profiles:

• Madagascar & Réunion – Rich, caramelized, and slightly smoky with cocoa undertones.

• Sri Lanka – Delicate and fruity with hints of blackcurrant and jammy ripeness.

• Papua New Guinea – Complex and warm, reminiscent of gingerbread and honey.

• Tahiti – Floral and soft, with coumarin and jasmine facets.

• Uganda – Darker and more masculine, with woody and leathery nuances.

• Guyana (Vanilla Pompona) – Evokes golden brioche and old-fashioned biscuits.

Interesting Fact: Vanilla possesses remarkable therapeutic properties. It is known to be anxiolytic, anti-inflammatory, and even aphrodisiac. The fragrance of vanilla acts as a natural pheromone, influencing serotonin levels and promoting relaxation. Studies conducted by the University Hospital of Strasbourg revealed that vanilla scent improved respiratory function in premature newborns, reducing apnea incidents by 36% when diffused in incubators. In aromatherapy, vanilla is used to alleviate stress, enhance mood, and encourage sleep.

From the royal courts of the Aztecs to the master perfumers of Paris, vanilla has journeyed across centuries, leaving an indelible mark on both history and the senses. Whether captured in the sweet warmth of a fine fragrance or the comforting embrace of a childhood dessert, vanilla remains a universally beloved note—one that continues to evolve, surprise, and seduce with every new extraction and every new formulation.